Baby chicks are fun to have around, but they grow fast and pretty soon you will be wondering when you can kick those sweet little fluff balls outside. A lot of people assume that there is a certain age that chicks can be moved outside. However, as much as it would be nice to have a one-size-fits-all answer, it’s not quite that simple. Factors such as outside temperature fluctuations, weather, and outdoor housing all play a role in deciding when your chicks can be moved outside. Figuring out the best time for your chicks to be moved outside is important for their health and longevity, so let’s take a deep dive into answering this question: When can chicks go outside?
When Can Chicks Be Moved Outside? Age & Readiness
A general rule of thumb is that chicks can be moved permanently outside once they have their first set of juvenile feathers AND the outside temperature does not fluctuate below 55°F. The chicks must be fully feathered so that they are able to regulate their own body temperature without needing supplemental heat.
There is no single ‘right’ age for when chicks can be moved outside. There are two main reasons for this:
- Chicks develop at different rates depending on their breed and how they are raised.
- Outdoor weather and temperature fluctuate depending on your region and the season.
Different chicken breeds have different development rates. Some breeds are known to mature slowly while others are known to mature quickly. Knowing the development rate of your chicken breeds can help you know what to expect as your chicks grow. Fast-maturing chicken breeds will develop their first set of real feathers sooner than slow-maturing breeds.
Another factor that influences chick development rates is supplemental heat. Chicks who are not weaned off of supplemental heat properly will not develop their first set of feathers as quickly. When the supplemental heat is not slowly reduced in the brooder, the chicks have no need to immediately begin replacing their down feathers with real feathers. So their feather development does not occur as soon or as quickly as when supplemental heat is properly reduced in the brooder.
Outdoor weather and temperature fluctuations will also play a role in when it is safe to move your chicks outside. Weather and temperature will vary depending on your region and during what season you are raising your chicks. Chicks raised in the spring may need to stay inside longer than chicks raised during the summer since the outdoor temperatures may fluctuate more during the spring. If you live in a region that experiences warm weather all year round, you may be able to move your chicks outside as early as 3 weeks of age. For those of you that live in a colder region, your chicks may not be able to live outside until they are closer to 10-12 weeks of age.
So, when considering when your chicks can be moved outside, here are the key factors:
- Age range: 3–10 weeks old
- Feather development is more important than calendar age.
- Region, temperature fluctuations, and weather patterns will influence when your chicks can be moved outside.
Rule of Thumb: Chick Age vs. Overnight Low Temperatures
One of the biggest factors that will determine when chicks can be moved outside is daily temperature lows. Chicks can be fully feathered but, since they are still young, they may struggle staying warm at night if the temperature dips too low. Understanding feather development will help you recognize when chicks might be ready to handle fluctuating temperatures in their environment.
Chick age and feather development are directly related. Chicks hatch with down feathers, which are soft, fluffy, and not insulating at all. The down feathers are not sufficient to trap heat close to the chick’s body which would enable the chick to maintain its own body temperature (around 103°F). That is why young chicks need supplemental heat.
As a chick matures, it will start replacing those down feathers with real feathers. This process usually starts gradually at around 20 days of age. The wing feathers will start to develop and down feathers on the head, wings, tail, and breast will start to be replaced with real feathers. Chicks have usually developed their first set of real feathers by the time they are 5-6 weeks old.
At this point, a second molt begins where the chicks will replace their first set of real feathers with a second set of real feathers. The second molt occurs much more gradually and may not even be noticeable. Since the molt occurs gradually, the chicks are able to maintain their own body temperature even as they loose and replace feathers. At this point, their body temperature has leveled out around 105-107°F and their developing metabolic processes also help them maintain this internal temperature.
Temperature-to-Age Rule of Thumb
|
Daily Low °F |
85°F |
80°F |
75°F |
70°F |
65°F |
55°F |
45°F |
30°F |
|
Min. Chick Age |
3 weeks |
4 weeks |
5 weeks |
6 weeks |
7 weeks |
8 weeks |
10 weeks |
12 weeks |
Note: Chicks should always have access to a coop or area that is predator-proof and provides shelter from the outdoor elements. This could be a properly built chicken coop or even a brooder within a chicken coop. If the temperature is going to drop below the minimum threshold, supplemental heat should be provided or the chicks should be brought into an area this is more temperate.
Using Supplemental Heat to Move Chicks Outside Earlier
Chicks need supplemental heat in the brooder for at least the first 3 weeks of their life. During this time, they are gradually replacing their down feathers and cannot fully regulate their own body temperature.
Radiant heaters or heat lamps are common supplemental heat sources to use in the brooder. Both supplemental heat options can be used in a way that gives the chicks free-choice access to the supplemental heat. This means that the chicks can choose to be under the supplemental heat or they can choose to move away from the supplemental heat.
Heat lamps are little harder to control since they often provide ambient heat that heats the entire brooder. The warmth will be the strongest beneath the heat lamp, but the heat output from the lamp will also work to increase the temperature of the entire brooder. A larger brooder will be able to disperse the heat more easily and provide areas of the brooder that are closer to the environment temperature.
A radiant heater gives the chicks more control over when they want to use the supplemental heat. The chicks can move about freely in the brooder and then utilize the radiant heater when they need to get warm. Keep in mind that radiant heaters work best if the environment temperature is about 55°F, that way the chicks don’t get too chilled when they move out from under the heater since the radiant heater will not output heat to warm the entire brooder.
The key to using both forms of supplemental heat and getting your chicks ready to move outside is the practice of properly weaning them off the supplemental heat source. Chicks that are raised in a warm environment will often grow faster, but that does not necessarily mean that they will develop their feathers faster. If there is no natural pressure for them to grow feathers for additional insulation, their feather development may take longer.
Radiant heaters usually allow chicks to develop feathers at a more natural rate since the chicks themselves are deciding when they need supplemental heat. When using a heat lamp, you will want to make sure the brooder temperature decreases by at least 5°F each week to encourage proper feather development. This can be done by raising the heat lamp further away from the brooder floor each week.
Supplemental heat can also be used when you are getting ready to permanently move your chicks outside. If the daytime temperatures stay above the minimum temperature but the nighttime lows dip below the minimum temperature, you may consider using supplemental heat in the coop where your chicks will be spending the night.
For example, say your chicks are 5 weeks old. The outside temperatures are staying at or above 75° during the day but the nighttime lows are below 70°. You will want to place a heat source in the coop so the chicks can stay warm enough at night. During the day, you can turn the heat source off once the environment temperature is comfortable for your chicks to move about freely.
This method often encourages more rapid feather development as the chicks will be needing to grow in their real feathers to better control their body temperature during the day. Additionally, make sure the chicks have the option to move away from the heat source if they desire.
Make sure that no matter what supplemental heat source you use, ensure that is securely and safely installed in the coop. You do not want the heat source to create a fire or safety hazard for your chicks.
Environmental Factors That Matter More Than Age
The environment plays a big role in deciding when it is safe to move your chicks outside. Temperature fluctuations and weather conditions will influence a chick's ability to stay warm and maintain a proper body temperature. Just because the chicks are comfortable outside on a sunny day doesn’t mean they are ready to be permanently moved outside.
Here are some weather risks to consider:
- Wind chill - exposure to the wind, or even just a slight breeze, can chill chicks quickly.
- Wet conditions - if chicks get wet, they will become chilled much quicker even on a warm day.
- Sudden Temperature Drops - weather patterns can cause sudden drops in the temperature both during the day and at night, which can lead to chicks getting chilled.
When considering how much of a risk these environmental factors pose to your chicks, you will need to consider their feathering, health, and behavior.
Feathering: Chicks who have replaced most of their down feathers with real feathers will be able to control their body temperature better and handle more weather fluctuations. Chicks should have their first set of real feathers by 5-6 weeks of age. At this age, they are fully feathered but can still be susceptible to wind chill, wet conditions, and temperatures that drop below 65°F.
Health: When chicks get chilled it creates a condition called cold stress. Cold stress will have a negative impact on chick health. It will inhibit their immune system, which can make them more susceptible to disease and illness. Stress will also inhibit their growth rate and may cause them to develop at a slower rate.
Behavior: Watching your chicks’ behavior is one of the best ways to determine if they are comfortable outside. Chicks that are getting chilled while being outside will often huddle together and cheep loudly. Frequent cases of pasty butt may become an issue and if the chicks are not comfortable moving around, they may not eat or drink.
What Age Can Chicks Start Free Ranging?
Free-ranging is the big leagues for your new chicks. It usually involves letting chickens roam freely with no pens or fences for protection. There are also different levels of free-ranging, such as supervised free-range or controlled free-ranging (sometimes called pasture-raised).
Letting your chicks be outside can include free-ranging, but being outside often starts by keeping the chicks confined in an enclosed pen or chicken tractor for safety. This establishes boundaries for the chicks, makes them feel safer, and keeps them protected from predators when they are at a more vulnerable age.
Chicks will develop their free-range skills while they are outside even when they are confined in a safe pen. As the chicks become more comfortable with being outside, you can gradually make their pen bigger and give them more freedom.
You may not want to start completely free-ranging your chicks until they are coop trained or trained to come when called. Coop training will ensure that your chicks return to their safe brooder or coop for the night. Treat training allows you easily round up the chicks and move them somewhere safe after they have free-ranged, plus it’s easy when you have the right motivation. A handful of Grubblies acts as a 'high-value' treat that will have your chicks sprinting back to the coop the moment they hear the bag crinkle.
You will also want to consider that young chicks are more vulnerable to predators. Even small predators that would pass up a mature chicken may consider a smaller chick easy picking.
The typical age range for allowing chicks to independently free-range is anywhere between 6-10 weeks of age. If you have other full-grown chickens on your property, your young chicks may learn from watching the older birds and the older birds may even provide some level of protection for the younger chicks. Ultimately, the risk of free ranging your birds at any age is up to you.
How to Transition Chicks Outside Safely
Your chicks will need to be gradually transitioned to living outside. Switching from the confines of their brooder to the outdoor world can be a big change for a small chick. However, chicks adapt to outdoor living very quickly when they are transitioned properly and safely. Here is a brief guideline you can use when transitioning your chicks outside:
1. Start with short daytime outings.
- Watch for signs of chilling, such as huddling together and loud cheeping.
- Look for normal behavior such as activity, eating, drinking, interacting, and exploring.
- Keep in mind that your chicks may be shy at first when they are first put outside. Everything is new to them, so you can encourage them to explore. Sprinkle some of their food or crushed grubs in the grass to encourage them to forage.
2. Provide shelter, shade, and heat if needed.
- Make sure the chicks have access to their food and water if they are spending more than 15 minutes outside.
- The chicks should be kept in a predator-proof, covered pen during their first few outside outings.
- If the chicks are getting chilled, move them back to the brooder and supplemental heat.
3. Use a protected run before free ranging.
- If your chicks are old enough to stay in a coop, start coop training them with treats right away. Also teach them to roost on the perches in the coop at night to further instill the safe habit of returning to the coop every night.
- Supervise outdoor time until chicks are comfortable outside. This may mean leaving them in an outside protected pen for several hours during the warmest part of the day and then moving them back into their brooder before they get chilled.
4. Gradually extend time and reduce support
Use the rules previously mentioned to determine when your chicks are comfortable enough to stay permanently outside:
- Weather
- Age
- Feather development
Conclusion
Chickens are meant to live outdoors! When you first get your chicks, they will need the support and heat provided by a brooder, but eventually they will be ready to stretch their wings and move outside. The point at which your chicks will be comfortable to spend their days in an outdoor environment will depend on several factors, including feather development, weather conditions, and age. Now that you have a good grasp on why these factors are important, you should be able to make an educated decision on when your chicks are ready to be moved outside! Just make sure you have a safe, predator-proof coop set up so your young chicks can develop into a productive and healthy backyard flock!
Source:
Resource for Age & Temperature Chart: 02502.pdf
